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Any discussion of German wine as a product has to begin with a little history. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the wines of Germany were as highly prized and sought after as any of those from the grand vineyards in the great regions of France; and prices reflected this fact. The top wines were very expensive, considerably more so than those from Bordeaux.

In the latter half of the twentieth century, particularly after the Second World War, German wine did not enjoy such an exalted reputation. Vine diseases developed due to the inability to tend the vineyards because of the war, as well as the economic depression it brought, and the subsequent occupation of prime vineyards - the Saar was under French rule until 1956 - all took their toll. The German wine industry was largely in tatters. Prices had fallen, and the export market had collapsed, entirely due to the war. And especially after the war, foreign currency from exports was sorely needed. A solution had to be found.

E voilà!. Through ingenuity, from the ruins of a most prestigious industry a phoenix arose. That phoenix was christened Liebfraumilch. Liebfraumilch is not a wine that you will find in Germany. It was developed specifically for the non-sophisticated tastes of markets, where the flowery, sweeter, largely nondescript wine was a hit; and that wine became Germany's biggest export.
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Millions of bottles of the Milk of Our Lady found their way into a number of markets. The name probably derives from the Liebfrauenkirche (church of Our Lady) vineyard near Worms, but obviously no one vineyard can account for the millions of bottles of Liebfraumilch produced every year. It is obvious that the wine has no true sense of place, and in the opinion of those who have tasted such money spinners, it bears no resemblance whatsoever to the truly great, single-estate wines, which dominated the trade in previous centuries. It certainly gives no inkling of the magnificent, quality wines produced by Germany's great estates today.

As a consequence, many uninformed wine drinkers today still regard German wines as little more than a source of cheap, sweet, unchallenging but at least consistent, wines sold under names which include Liebfraumilch, but also Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, Piesporter Michelsberg and a few infamous brands.

However, the great estates that dominated two centuries ago, as well as the small, family owned wineries, which produce some of the world's most outstanding wines, are still there, producing what many connoisseurs would argue are the world's greatest white wines. But now there is an equally important development in the German wine industry. Although figures like Napoleon counted one of the red wines of Würrtemberg among his most favourite, German reds were generally not counted among the world's greatest. However, for a long time now, that has changed. Germany has been responsible for the development of some exceptional new, red grape varieties, as well as building a reputation for excellence in the traditional varieties such as Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder). Many of the new red varieties are now being cultivated by vineyards all over the world.
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