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Riesling - The Noble Grape of Germany
Riesling is a white grape variety which originates in the Rhine region of Germany. It is an aromatic grape, displaying flowery, almost perfumed aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling white wines. Because of both its cellar longevity, and its ability to maintain varietal identity, while reflecting the individuality of its terroir - called terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of the wines is clearly influenced by the wine's place of origin.
Riesling may be the best of all the white wine grapes. In Germany, it is made into wines that run the gamut from bone dry and crisp quaffers to the very complex, almost impossibly sweet Trockenbeerenauslese. These wines are usually made varietally pure, and are seldom oaked. The Riesling grape is included in the 'top three' white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
In 2006, Riesling was the most grown variety in Germany with 20.8% and 21,197 hectares (52,380 acres), and in the French region of Alsace with 21.9% and 3,350 hectares (8,300 acres). Other countries which grow Riesling with much dedication - albeit with certainly lesser results - are Australia, South Africa, Chile, Austria, Switzerland, Russia, Yugoslavia, and Italy, and even China.
For those who are not so familiar with the grape variety, it should be noted that the Riesling name has been tarnished by the attachment of its name to other white varietals, such as Grey Riesling/Chaucé Gris, Walschriesling/Italian Riesling, Missouri Riesling, and in Australia, Clare Riesling. These are of far lesser quality, and, genetically, totally unrelated to the true Riesling, but are often marketed to the unknowing simply as 'Riesling'. In parts of the world where this is not unknown, Riesling is often marketed as 'Rhine Riesling', so as to identify the real grape.

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Riesling vines are particularly hard-wooded and tolerant of cold weather and they bud late, so are well-suited to the coldest wine-growing climes. Hanging in compact, winged clusters and ripening later than other varieties, bunch rot and non-beneficial molds can be a problem, if there is much rain or humidity during in the ripening season. Hillside micro-climates which provide cool climates and at the same time plenty of sun exposure, yet protection from the winds are of paramount importance to quality Riesling. The best German vineyards with these conditions on the Mosel River produce wines that are unique in their low alcohol, powerful aroma, and high extract.
The grape has a long history, the earliest of its references dating from 1435, when the storage inventory of Count John IV. of Katzenelnbogen in Rüsselsheim on the Rhine listed "22 ß umb seczreben Rießlingen in die wingarten" (22 shillings for Riesling vine cuttings for the vineyard). The modern spelling of Riesling in Germany was first documented in 1552; but, in 1477, Riesling was already documented in Alsace under the spelling Rissling.
It has always been claimed that the Riesling grape originated from wild vines of the Rhine region. Recent DNA fingerprinting indicated that one parent of Riesling is Gouais Blanc, known in Germany as Weißer Heunisch, which was brought to the area from Croatia by the Romans. The other parent is a cross between a wild vine and Traminer. It is presumed that the Riesling was born somewhere in the valley of the Rhine, since both Heunisch and Traminer have a long documented history in Germany.
Riesling wines are often consumed young, when they make a fruity and aromatic wine which may have aromas of green or other apples, grapefruit, peach, honey, rose blossom or cut green grass, and usually a crisp taste due to the high acidity. However, Riesling's naturally high acidity and range of flavours make it suitable for extended aging. International wine expert Michael Broadbent rates aged German Rieslings, some hundreds of years old, extremely highly. Sweet Riesling wines, such as German Trockenbeerenauslese are especially suited for cellaring, since the high sugar content provides for additional preservation. However, high quality dry or off-dry Riesling is also known to have not just survived, but also been enjoyable at an age exceeding 100 years. The townhall in Bremen, Germany, stores various German wines, including Rieslings, in barrels dating back to the 1653 vintage.
More common aging periods for Riesling wines would be 5-15 years for dry, 10-20 years for semi-sweet and 10-30+ for sweet versions. Some lovely, dry Rieslings from our producer, Weingut Reinhold Fuchs, in the Mosel, will certainly cellar well for at least 20 years. Indeed, some we have enjoyed recently did not reach their peak drinking before 16 years. But the beauty of the Riesling grape is that the same vintner can produce light, fresh, crisp, fruity, wines ideal for drinking young.
In such cases, the light, delicately sweet flavor of simple pan-fried-in-butter trout is especially good with Riesling. On the other hand, with more matured wines, grilled or sautéed sausage, with its range from savory to spicy, also works well with this varietal. As with most foods, spices and sauce should be the factors that determine the wine match, rather than the color of the meat. Try a Riesling with Spicy Long Bean Beef Stir Fry and you'll understand!
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